Cradle Mountain is Tasmania’s natural icon. I’ve visited Cradle Mountain at all ages and seasons and it offers something different every time. The national park encompasses more than just the mountain itself and includes the famous 80-kilometre Overland Track. But much of the park’s beauty is accessible within a day.
My most recent trip to the mountain was December 2015. One of the more recent changes to the park’s management is the introduction of a shuttle bus service between the park entrance and Dove Lake where you can view Cradle Mountain from its most famous vantage point. Our bus driver said he thought there’d been 2,000 people in the park the day before, which actually seemed on the low-side compared to the number of full buses.
We arrived at Dove Lake around midmorning. It was a piercing blue day. There’s an old sign at the lake that states that there are only a hundred sunny days at the lake each year, perhaps to manage expectations when the mountain is whited-out by cloud. However I think I’ve been hogging the sunny days, and can recall the mountain being hidden only once or twice.
The astonishing thing about this view of the mountain is that it is right there, just beyond the carpark. The mountain looms above the far end of the lake, perfectly framed by lower peaks. Apparently this was the view that stopped explorer Gustav Weindorfer in his tracks and inspired the protection of the park. I suppose it’s hard to explain why some bits of nature are aesthetically pleasing and others are just a jumble of rocks and trees. Maybe it appeals to a desire for organisation.
There are so many walks from Dove Lake, including a low altitude, 3-hour circuit of the lake. This offers all the views and passes notably through a stand of old-growth rainforest. (Side note: once walking through this forest I passed under a tree to turn around and find a snake tangling at throat level.) For a different perspective I like doing a high-altitude circuit by combining a number of tracks – call it the ‘ultimate Dove Lake circuit’.
We started out on the Dove Lake circuit track clockwise, passing Glacier Rock before taking a left fork onto the Hansen’s Peak track. When I was a kid we referred to this rock as Suicide Rock, although I never knew why. The park managers have gone for something more geologically appropriate.
High summer, all the alpine plants were in flower, including Christmas Bells. At the saddle between Hansen’s Peak and Mt Campbell we turned off the main track down towards Lake Hansen. This is a ‘hanging’ lake, suspended on a shelf left by a glacier at some point in the past. It really does look like an infinity pool, with the water reaching right to the edge where the shelf descends to the gorge below.
The track winds its way around Lake Hansen through dwarfed mountain scrub and tarns (tiny lakes in hollows left by ice), many of them full of tadpoles. It then climbs back towards Hansen’s Peak and just behind the peak arrives at the Twisted Lakes, which look like a Japanese garden.
From the lakes we continued across the face of Cradle Mountain. Here the mountain looms directly above, and Dove Lake directly below. The track crosses onto the high, almost flat plateau at Kitchen Hut, through the strange forms of cushion plants.
From Kitchen Hut we walked across the plateau to Marion’s Lookout, with spectacular views behind of the mountain and peaks beyond into western and southern Tasmania.
Down the very steep lookout we descended to Crater Lake instead of returning to Dove Lake. This track makes its way alongside a forested stream with waterfalls into the broad valley of Ronny Creek. We arrived at wombat o’clock, with tens of wombats stirring amongst the tussocks. It’s also a great place to see the bizarre pandani, which look like tropical palms.
Track notes
The Cradle Mountain visitors centre is about 2.5 hours from Launceston. You can drive into the park if it’s not busy; if it is, get the bus. We did the circuit a particular way but for first time visitors I’d actually suggest walking the anti-clockwise around the lake for the greatest spectacle. The main components of the circuit are Marion’s Lookout, Kitchen Hut, the Face Track, and Hansen’s Peak before returning to Dove Lake. This would take 4-5 hours. All tracks are clearly marked and signposted. Much of the walk is high and exposed so pack wet weather gear and warm clothes. There are many interesting side tracks and alterations to suit as long a day as you like. I love the Twisted Lakes. You could walk a little way behind the mountain towards Lake Rodway. Cradle Mountain summit is also very achievable in a day, although be aware that this involves negotiating very large boulders (or scree) stacked near vertically – both physically strenuous and mentally nerve-wracking. It’s certainly a rewarding climb though.
Track Notes 